They vanished from market stalls for decades. Too ugly, too hard to peel, too closely tied to memories of wartime hardship… Forgotten vegetables long lived in the shadow of their more glamorous cousins. For years they were dismissed as grandmother’s curiosities or symbols of scarcity. Yet in recent years they have made a spectacular comeback in gourmet kitchens. Leading chefs now place them at the heart of their plates, drawn by their complex flavours, surprising textures and rich histories.
Why this renewed interest? Because these vegetables tell a story. They bring real biodiversity to the plate, genuine seasonality, and tastes that industrial, uniform varieties can no longer offer. Here are ten of them that currently delight Michelin-starred tables… and that the wider public is finally starting to rediscover.
1. Crosnes (Chinese Artichokes)
These small, segmented rhizomes look like tiny white caterpillars or strings of pearls. Their delicate flavour sits somewhere between artichoke and hazelnut. Hugely popular in the early 20th century, they almost disappeared because they keep poorly and are tedious to clean. Today chefs simply sauté them in brown butter, pickle them or serve them raw in salads for their unique crunchy texture. A true winter jewel.
2. Scorzonera (Black Salsify)
A long root with black skin and white flesh, scorzonera develops a mild, slightly sweet taste when cooked — sometimes compared to oysters or hazelnuts. Long confused with white salsify and neglected for the same reason (painful peeling), it is now returning in gratins, veloutés or simply pan-fried. Its melting texture appeals to cooks looking for elegant accompaniments to white meats and fish.
3. Jerusalem Artichoke (Sunchoke / Topinambour)
The great post-war outcast. Associated with rationing, it was shunned for decades. Yet its flavour of artichoke and chestnut is remarkable. When cooked slowly at low temperature it becomes perfectly digestible and silky. Chefs turn it into smooth purées, crispy chips, veloutés or even desserts. A vegetable that has successfully reinvented itself.
4. Parsnip (including purple varieties)
A close relative of the carrot, the parsnip offers a sweeter, more aromatic flesh with notes of hazelnut and sometimes vanilla. Purple or heirloom varieties add beautiful colour to the plate. Roasted, mashed, souped or turned into chips, it has become a staple of autumn and winter menus. Its versatility and gentle sweetness make it a chef favourite.
5. Oca (New Zealand Yam / Peruvian Oca)
This small Andean tuber looks like a miniature elongated potato in shades of yellow, pink or red. Its unique tangy, slightly lemony flavour sets it apart. Long a rarity in Europe, it now seduces inventive kitchens that serve it raw in salads, roasted or mashed. A welcome touch of freshness and originality.
6. Skirret (Chervis)
An ancient root with a sweet, aromatic flavour reminiscent of parsnip, celeriac and sometimes a hint of mint or tzatziki. Served on royal tables from the Middle Ages to the 18th century, it was abandoned in favour of more productive crops. Today chefs are rediscovering it for its aromatic complexity. Brushed, steamed or sautéed, it brings a refined and rare note to the plate.
7. Turnip-rooted Chervil (Cerfeuil tubéreux)
A small conical grey root with fine flesh and a sweet taste recalling chestnut and new potato. Introduced to France in the 19th century, it remained a discreet luxury vegetable for a long time. Top chefs love it for its texture and delicate flavour. Just a few minutes of cooking are enough to transform it into a purée, roast or simple pan-fry.
8. Rutabaga (Swede)
A hybrid of cabbage and turnip, the rutabaga still carries the weight of wartime associations. Yet its firm yellow flesh is pleasantly sweet. Chefs bake it in gratins, roast it with honey, turn it into fries or serve it as a grilled carpaccio. Once freed from its negative image, it reveals surprising gastronomic potential.
9. Salsify (White Salsify)
A long beige root with tender flesh and a subtle flavour often described as a cross between artichoke and oyster. Like scorzonera, it suffered from laborious peeling. Today it reappears in vinaigrettes, gratins or as an elegant side dish. Its finesse appeals to cooks seeking delicate flavours.
10. Helianti (or Jerusalem Sunflower)
Often confused with the Jerusalem artichoke, the helianti is a finer variety with an even more pronounced artichoke taste. Some chefs prefer it for its cleaner notes. It lends itself to the same preparations: veloutés, purées, roasts. A close cousin that fully deserves its place on the list of rediscoveries.
Why Chefs Love Them
These forgotten vegetables are not merely “original”. They bring real qualities: varied textures (the crunch of crosnes, the melt of Jerusalem artichoke, the firmness of rutabaga), complex flavours and a compelling story to tell. In an era that values local produce, seasonality and biodiversity, they tick every box. Many grow in modest soils, require few inputs and offer a genuine alternative to standardised vegetables.
Specialist market gardeners and organic growers are cultivating them again. Markets and some retailers stock them more and more. And by highlighting them, chefs are giving the general public the desire to taste them.
How to Approach Them at Home
Don’t be put off by their sometimes strange appearance. Most are simple to cook: roasted in the oven with a drizzle of olive oil and herbs, mashed, baked in a gratin or sautéed. The secret is often a longer cooking time to soften textures and develop aromas. Start with parsnip or Jerusalem artichoke, which are easier to find, then be bold with crosnes or turnip-rooted chervil.
These forgotten vegetables are no longer truly forgotten. They are reclaiming their place, thanks to chefs who saw in them not relics of the past but treasures for the future. So next time you pass a slightly unusual stall, stop. Behind those imperfect shapes lie flavours that richly deserve to be rediscovered.
